Wearable History: Two-Day Hindman Auction to Spotlight the Evolution of Jewelry
CHICAGO – Hindman’s inaugural Jewelry Through the Ages auction explores jewelry trends and their evolution. Across more than 600 lots from the 1st millennium BC to the 21st century, bidders will have the opportunity to acquire wearable pieces from a range of cultures.
“As our first auction to showcase jewelry from ancient to modern times, we are excited to offer bidders a chance to journey through the ages to discover the development of jewelry and the timeless trends we still see in fashion today,” commented Jacob Coley, Hindman Director and Senior Specialist of Antiquities.
Ancient to Neoclassical | March 21
As the world’s oldest art form, ancient wearable jewelry and engraved gems reveal past cultures and civilizations and shed light on our collective history. The first day of the sale will feature Byzantine, Roman, Greek, and Neoclassical style jewelry.
The auction will kick off with wearable beaded necklaces from the Ancient Near East and scarab swivel rings from Egypt. Often used for spiritual or religious rituals, the sale will offer amulets worn for protection against evil spirits, charms worn for fertility, and magic gems worn for good luck.
Lot 8 | An Egyptian Gold and Steatite Scarab Swivel Ring
Estimate: $800 - $1,200
From 3000-500 BC, jewelry became more ornate and was a critical element of indicating status within society. Mesopotamian jewelry featured elaborate cylinder seals with scenes depicting gods and goddesses, while Egyptian pieces featured hieroglyphs and symbols associated with their gods.
Engraved gems—also known as cameos and intaglios—were highly sought-after during this period. Typically made from minerals such as agate or quartz, these pieces were often carved with intricate designs featuring figures from mythology or scenes from literature. These gems often adorn rings or brooches while others were simply kept as collector’s items.
Lot 36 | A Greek Gold Finger Ring with Armed Hoplite
Estimate: $5,000 - $7,000
Lot 48 | A Hellenistic Gold and Sardonyx Cameo Finger Ring with the God Dionysos
Estimate: $7,000 - $9,000
Lot 167 | A Neoclassical Gold and Carved Carnelian Conch Shell Cameo of Medusa Brooch
Estimate: $800 - $1,200
Neoclassical pieces to be offered spotlight the influence of Greco-Roman culture. This time saw a renewed interest in Roman culture due to the Italian campaigns by Napolean Bonaparte against Italy in 1796, and the 1798 war between France and Egypt. This led to an increased usage of Egyptian motifs such as sphinxes, pyramids, palmets, papyrus leaves and scarabs.
Georgian to Modern | March 22
Day two of the auction will span Georgian to Modern, displaying the development of jewelry across Georgian, Victorian, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and mid-century to modern jewelry.
Lot 45 | Georgian, Convertible Diamond Earrings
Estimate: $800- $1,200
Georgian jewelry, referring to jewelry made in United Kingdom during the reign of the four King Georges, featured silver-topped gold pieces. This was a popular style because the silver tarnish would not rub off on clothing due to the gold. An example are these convertible diamond earrings:
Moving into the Victorian Era, the gem cutting techniques started advancing, reflected in the colorful floral pieces the young Queen Victoria favored. Throughout her period of mourning, which the Queen remained in the rest of her life, the jewelry of the late Victorian era is darker and more somber to display the monarch’s grieving.
Lot 7 | Victorian, Rose Gold and Enamel Buckle Bangle Bracelet
Estimate: $600-$800
Victorian, Diamond and Emerald Four Leaf Clover Brooch
Estimate: $1,500- $2,500
Unique jewelry featuring floral inspiration and whimsical lines characteristic of the Art Nouveau period is also highlighted. Evoking images of Parisian subway entrances and spring, this era broke away from the more formal angles of past time periods.
Lot 51 | French, Art Nouveau, Enamel and Pearl Brooch
Estimate: $300 - $500
La Belle Époque “the beautiful age,” as it was known in France is part of the Edwardian era, is when some of the greatest pieces of European royal collections were made. It is considered the last golden era of the monarchies of Europe after the turn of the century and before World War I.
Lot 74 | Edwardian, Diamond and Enamel Brooch
Estimate: $600-$800
Entering into the Art Deco era taking place after World War II, we see the re-emergence larger diamond and colored stone pieces, such as the below jade and diamond brooch by Bailey, Banks & Biddle. This era is a very distinct time in jewelry design and has influenced much of today’s styles.
This era was also inspired by the discovery of King Tut’s tomb – influencing art, architecture, and jewelry. Use of carved gemstones also saw new life as discoveries in the East were brought to Europe and America.
Lot 93 | Bailey, Banks & Biddle, Art Deco, Jade, Diamond and Enamel Brooch
Estimate: $1,000 - $2,000
A return to war meant that platinum was rationed, thus ushering in the Retro era during and post-World War II, known for its use of gold and rose gold. As more and more people looked to Hollywood as the new royalty of the world, the Retro style was seen on covers of Hollywood and fashion magazines.
Lot 132 | Cartier, Retro, Sapphire and Diamond Clip Brooch
Estimate: $1,000 - $2,000
From mid-century to modern jewelry, the style of the previous time periods come back into style and roll out with each new generation. Through the rise of new jewelers in the 50s, such as Harry Winston and Oscar Heyman, creating glamorous diamond pieces, and then the increase of bold gold pieces of the 60s and 70s, it is clear the styles of today are ever-changing.
Lot 205 | Oscar Heyman, Yellow Gold And Diamond Ring
Estimate: $800 - $1,200
Lot 317 | Elizabeth Locke, Yellow Gold, Cultured Pearl, Ruby and Glass Cameo Earclips
Estimate: $800 - $1,200
How to Bid
Bidding for both days of the auction will begin at 10am CT and will be available online through Hindman’s Digital Bid Room. Additional information on each day of the sale can be found here: Day I (Ancient to Neoclassical) and Day II (Georgian to Modern).