Classical Motifs
Our upcoming April 10-11 Important Jewelry auction includes a number of works, both vintage and modern, that use classical motifs including micro-mosaics, cameos and polychrome enamel. Micro-mosaics, a technique of jewelry design popular in the eighteenth and nineteenth century, involves carefully inlaying stone together to form an image. This incredibly time-consuming technique is highly sought after by collectors and connoisseurs.
Lot 5: This archaeological revival Castellani yellow gold pendant brooch includes subtle micro-mosaics inlaid with black tesserae of the Greek letters, Iota, Chi, Theta, Upsilon and Sigma. While this pendant was made it 1870, it is more modern interpretation of the mosaic than the Gurhan pendant. This Castellani example of micro-mosaic carries a presale estimate of $3,000 to $5,000.
Lot 362: This yellow gold and emerald pendant by Gurhan features a central floral motif micro-mosaic. This micro-mosaic is much more traditional than the almost abstract use of the technique in lot 5. This has a presale estimate of $800-$1200.
Lot 40: This pendant features a central sapphire cameo, a carved raised relief often of a profile or a mythological scene. In addition to the cameo this pendant is adorned with two cushion cut sapphires, a navette shape cabochon cut ruby and stylized griffins. This carries an estimate of $1,500 to $2,500.
Lot 220: This Elizabeth Locke brooch is an example of how contemporary designers are using classical motifs. This yellow gold brooch contains a central mother-of-pearl backed Venetian glass cameo of Medusa. This brooch has an estimate of $1,000 to $2,000.
Lot 24: This Edward Tessier pendant is an exemplar of the Renaissance revival style, also known as “Holbeinesque,” that became popular in the late nineteenth-century. The reinterpretation of the Renaissance featured classical motifs, and large oval gemstones in the center of polychrome enamel, as shown in this pendant. It is estimated at $8,000 to $12,000.
Lot 308: In addition to fine art, Roy Lichtenstein also dabbled in jewelry design. This pendant brooch is Lichtenstein’s interpretation of the classical polychrome enamel. Unlike the Holbeinesque example, this has a contemporary sensibility. This 1968 work carries an estimate of $1,000 to $2,000.