From Past to Present: Coins and Cameos in Bulgari Jewelry
Coming up in Freeman’s | Hindman Important Jewelry auction on September 12, 2024 are three extraordinary Bulgari necklaces, circa 1980, consigned from a private Wisconsin collection. The attention to detail, superior craftsmanship, fine engraved gems, and rare coin featured in these pieces make them highly collectible. 1970-1980’s jewelry from Bulgari is particularly in demand, as the company was in an international expansive mode and at the top of fashion trends during this time.
Founded in 1884 by Sottiro Bulgari in Rome, Italy, the house had risen to become the place to shop for amazing jewels and gemstones. By 1960, Bulgari was frequented by celebrities from around the world including movie stars like Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, Isabella Rossellini, and Audrey Hepburn and was synonymous with the Italian La Dolce Vita era of cinema. When the third generation Bulgari brothers took over the family business in 1966, a flurry of creativity and expansion happened at the firm. The younger generation wanted to bring Bulgari to the world, especially jewelry that women could wear anytime, anywhere. In this spirit, they opened the first store outside of Rome in New York City’s Pierre Hotel in 1971. The Bulgari Historical Archive & Museum Office indicated that all three of these necklaces were likely produced by Bulgari for the American market although only one of the trio has written confirmation that it was, in fact, purchased at the Pierre Hotel boutique.
The Bulgari Agate Cameo, Diamond and Yellow Gold Necklace showcases a 19th century hardstone cameo of Napolean embellished with a diamond laurel wreath around his head. It is accented by diamonds in a scroll design and hangs from a gold curb link chain. It is accompanied by a receipt dated 1985 confirming it was purchased at the Bulgari New York boutique which opened in 1971 in the famous Pierre Hotel.
Featured in the Bulgari Multigem, Intaglio, Yellow Gold Necklace is a carnelian intaglio suspended from bold multicolored gemstones in pink, lavender, and orange. This bold color palette and use of cabochons is a typical Bulgari style characteristic.
Finally, the Bulgari Coin, ‘Monete’ Necklace centers a rare Sicilian silver coin suspended from a signature Bulgari curb link chain. This example is of an extraordinary size, 2¼ inches in diameter, so, it really makes a statement!
Coin jewelry became synonymous with Bulgari ever since it was launched in 1966. Nicola Bulgari, the youngest brother, was fascinated by coins from an early age and collected them. Wanting to bring his passion to Bulgari jewelry, he began mounting coins in long gold chain necklaces. The necklaces were a hit. In the 1970s through the 1990s a Bulgari coin choker graced the necks of countless women and became a huge fashion statement. The coin jewelry was named, “Monete”, the Italian word for coin and remains highly sought after and collected. Freeman's | Hindman recently sold a smaller Monete necklace for $28,575.
These necklaces are excellent examples of Bulgari’s commitment to using an historical element in many of their jewels. The founder of Bulgari, Sottiro, started his business selling antiques as well as jewelry. This passion for collecting continued in the family with his son, Giorgio and then his grandson, Nicola. Whether a coin or a one-of-a-kind cameo or intaglio connecting a fragment of the past to modern, bold jewelry is a winning combination.
INQUIRIES: [email protected]
VIEWING: 7 - 11 September 1550 West Carroll Avenue, Chicago, IL
TO BE OFFERED SEPTEMBER 12, CHICAGO
BULGARI, AGATE CAMEO, DIAMOND AND YELLOW GOLD NECKLACE $20,000 - 30,000
BULGARI, MULTIGEM, INTAGLIO AND YELLOW GOLD NECKLACE $7,000 - 9,000