Marguery Bolhagen Three-Piece Plaid Ensemble with Bag, 1980s

Marguery Bolhagen was a fashion designer who worked in the United States from the 1950s to the 1970s. She was known for structured silhouettes that take inspiration from Charles James, who she worked with before starting a label under her own name in Washington D.C. and New York.

This ensemble was worn by Austine McDonnell Hearst (1920-1991).

Austine McDonnell Hearst lived among fashion and high society through her work in the newspaper business, and her marriages to Igor Cassini and William Randolph Hearst Jr. She cultivated close friendships with Charles James and Marguery Bolhagen and would collaborate with designers on custom garments, which she modeled at shows and events. Many of these pieces now reside in museum collections, including the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Hot pink, red, and purple plaid wool and hot pink silk satin lined three-piece ensemble including an oversized swing coat with rolled collar, flared open sleeves, and front button closure at neckline; paired with bias-cut cropped hot pink silk satin top with kimono sleeves, and wool plaid circle skirt with wide waist band. Additional frame bag in satin with two handles and gold-tone ornaments with monogram in gold of Mrs. Hearst on the outside AHM (for Austine McDonnell Hearst). Lined in blue ribbed moiré.
Label: Bolhagen
Size Label: N/A
Style/Serial No.: N/A

Approximate Measurements:
COAT
Shoulders: 15.5"
Chest: 60"
Waist: 72"
Hips: 82"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 47"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 29"

TOP
Shoulders: 15.5"
Chest: 42"
Waist: 40"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 17"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 19"

SKIRT
Waist: 26"
Hips: 48"
Length (side waist band to hem): 30.5"

BAG
Detailed Features
11.75" L x 8.5" H x 3.5" W
5.5" Handle Drop
Main textile: Hot pink satin
Lining: Blue ribbed moiré
Hardware type: Gold-tone metal
Handles: Two handles for hand carry
Interior details: Front and back slip pockets, internal flat slip pocket, 6 pouch pockets, 1 zippered pocket
Additions: Gold-tone metal monogram on front

Property from the Collection of a Midwest University