Marguery Bolhagen Three-Piece Plaid Ensemble with Bag, 1980s

Marguery Bolhagen was a fashion designer who worked in the United States from the 1950s to the 1970s. She was known for structured silhouettes that take inspiration from Charles James, who she worked with before starting a label under her own name in Washington D.C. and New York.

This ensemble was worn by Austine McDonnell Hearst (1920-1991).

Austine McDonnell Hearst lived among fashion and high society through her work in the newspaper business, and her marriages to Igor Cassini and William Randolph Hearst Jr. She cultivated close friendships with Charles James and Marguery Bolhagen and would collaborate with designers on custom garments, which she modeled at shows and events. Many of these pieces now reside in museum collections, including the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Hot pink, red, and purple plaid wool and hot pink silk satin lined three-piece ensemble including an oversized swing coat with rolled collar, flared open sleeves, and front button closure at neckline; paired with bias-cut cropped hot pink silk satin top with kimono sleeves, and wool plaid circle skirt with wide waist band. Additional frame bag in satin with two handles and gold-tone ornaments with monogram in gold of Mrs. Hearst on the outside AHM (for Austine McDonnell Hearst). Lined in blue ribbed moiré.
Label: Bolhagen
Size Label: N/A
Style/Serial No.: N/A

Approximate Measurements:
COAT
Shoulders: 15.5"
Chest: 60"
Waist: 72"
Hips: 82"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 47"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 29"

TOP
Shoulders: 15.5"
Chest: 42"
Waist: 40"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 17"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 19"

SKIRT
Waist: 26"
Hips: 48"
Length (side waist band to hem): 30.5"

BAG
Detailed Features
11.75" L x 8.5" H x 3.5" W
5.5" Handle Drop
Main textile: Hot pink satin
Lining: Blue ribbed moiré
Hardware type: Gold-tone metal
Handles: Two handles for hand carry
Interior details: Front and back slip pockets, internal flat slip pocket, 6 pouch pockets, 1 zippered pocket
Additions: Gold-tone metal monogram on front

Property from the Collection of a Midwest University

Condition:

The overall condition is very good with some dark marks under the right sleeve and back right shoulder of the crop top. The wool plaid exteriors of both the coat and skirt has some minor pilling, particularly along the hemlines. The hand bag has some very minor wear on the base corners and peg feet and the blue lining has some darkening along the tops where it is stitched to the pink satin.

Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email [email protected] with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.

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Marguery Bolhagen Three-Piece Plaid Ensemble with Bag, 1980s

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