The Timeless Allure of Verdura Jewelry

Jewelry by the house of Verdura ranks among the iconic designs of the 20th century. Known for the juxtaposition of brightly hued semiprecious stones, Verdura jewelry is cheerful and often whimsical, yet grand in scale.

Born in 1899 into Sicilian aristocracy, Duke Fulco di Verdura spent his early years in Palermo, Italy. From a young age, he developed an interest in history, antiques, and design. His illustrious career began in 1920s Paris, where he was introduced to Coco Chanel. For nearly a decade, he worked at the House of Chanel, first in textile design and later designing costume jewelry and the famous Maltese cross bracelets that became synonymous with style and the friendship that developed between Verdura and Coco Chanel.

In 1935, Fulco di Verdura relocated again, this time to New York City, and began working for Paul Flato. Flato was known as the jeweler to the stars and boasted a clientele that included Marlene Dietrich. In 1939, Verdura launched his own jewelry house, opening his first showroom on Fifth Avenue. Verdura’s early patrons included Cole Porter, Vincent Astor, and Diana Vreeland. Socialites and Truman Capote's swans, Babe Paley and Slim Keith, helped make some of his most famous pieces iconic.

Freeman’s is proud to offer several extraordinary Verdura jewels from an Important Midwest Collection in our September 23 Important Jewelry auction. The collection includes pieces at a wide range of price points for buyers at all levels. A pair of ‘Byzantine’ earrings, a bold gold design set with pink tourmalines and amethysts, a timeless classic and foundational piece for any collection; and a rare, whimsical enamel and gem-set ‘Maharajah’ figural brooch complete with pearl earrings and a cat perched upon his shoulder.

Verdura jewelry motifs are as often derived from nature as from history; shells, including the gem-encrusted Lion’s Paw brooch, are widely featured in his work. Life-size flower brooches were perfect for Verdura’s brilliant color palette. On offer is a stunning tourmaline, citrine, and diamond flower brooch. The petals are set a glow by the diamonds scattered amongst the citrines, all anchored by the deep green of an emerald cut tourmaline.

An extraordinary cuff bracelet featuring cushion shaped peridots, diamonds, and colored diamonds is a highlight of the sale. Using Verdura’s signature gold rope twist, the design weaves together the brightly colored peridots, placing diamonds subtly between them. The lively peridots create a piece that perfectly captures Verdura’s style: bold yet understated. This bracelet can effortlessly be worn from day to night, and would be the star of any collection.

INQUIRIES: aprilmatteini@freemansauction.com
VIEWING: September 18 – 22
1550 W Carroll Street, Chicago, IL