Circle of Frans Hals (Dutch, 1582-1666)
Portrait of a Lady, Three Quarter Length with Hood and Ruff,
This work is a wonderful study of early 17th century costume worn by wealthy married Dutch women. It is also a great example of what art historians refer to as “inconspicuous consumption”. Although her garments might at first glance seem austere and dark, the details, and quality of fabrics indicate her status as a member of a burgeoning, wealthy merchant class.
The sitter is wearing a traditional black “vlieger”, a long sleeveless over-gown with structured shoulder rolls. It features a subtle, floral pattern woven into textile. Her sleeves and stomacher are fashioned from what appears to be deep burgundy brocade fabric, embellished with shimmering metallic patterns, or perhaps patterned cuts. She is wearing a millstone ruff, made from heavily starched, white linen. Resting on top of her slicked-back hair is a white linen and lace cap, or the “winged cap”, trimmed with delicate, transparent lace, forming a halo-like effect around her head.
We might describe this aesthetic as “quiet luxury.” It reflects a compromise between Calvinist ideals of restraint and the considerable wealth that flowed into the Dutch provinces through mercantile enterprise and the expansion of international trade.
