Charles James was an Anglo-American fashion designer who worked in Chicago, London, and Paris in the 1920s and 30s before settling in New York in the 1940s, where he remained until his death in 1978. Throughout his career, James maintained a loyal list of couture clients at the same time as numerous ready-to-wear contracts. While most designers present entirely new collections each season, Charles James considered his creations timelessly fashionable and created what can be defined as design concepts—fundamental ideas that he developed, refined and perfected over decades. For example, a sleeve design from a custom-made dress in the 1930s will reappear in a 1950s design for the ready-to-wear market.

Two concepts that James felt were some of his greatest lifetime achievements include the arc sleeve and the clover-shaped skirt. Over the years, these designs appear in different forms in his iconic creations. In this dress and bolero, a ready-to-wear design by Charles James for Samuel Winston, both the arc sleeve and clover-shaped skirt appear in all their glory.

Samuel Winston was a New York retailer who hired Charles James in 1952 to create 30 designs each year. Due to their unique role in fashion history, quality and rarity, garments created by James are prized possession by museums and collectors alike. An additional version of this design can be found in the National Museum of American History, accession #: 1977.1166.001.

Pink silk faille sleeveless dress with pieced bodice into flared and shaped skirt lined with silk net, and center back zipper closure; paired with matching pink bolero with wing rolled collar which attaches at the center front three buttons on the bodice, arced three-piece sleeves with fold up cuffs, and back hook and eye closure with black satin ribbon bow detail.
Label: Samuel Winston by Charles James
Size Label: N/A
Style/Serial No.: N/A

Approximate Measurements:
DRESS
Shoulders: 13"
Chest: 35.5
Waist: 24"
Hips: 38"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 50"

BOLERO
Shoulders: 13.5"
Chest: 36"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 13.5"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 26.5"