Sea Silk Hat, 1920-50

This hat, pair of gloves (lot 4), and shawl (lot 5) are made of sea silk. While silk for textiles is typically made by protein filaments produced by the mulberry silkworm, sea silk is made from protein filaments (also known as byssus) produced by the noble pen shell, or Pinna Nobilis, a mollusk found only in the Mediterranean Sea. These large mollusks can grow to over three feet in length and produce protein filaments (which can grow to a maximum length of 6 to 8 inches) that secure the shell to the sea floor. These filaments were historically harvested, spun and made into textiles or used for embroidery with a mesmerizing metallic sheen.

This collection of sea silk are family heirlooms, which the owners date to around 1920, with a story that traces the items to southern Italy, one of the most important historic sources of sea silk. In June 2021, scientific investigation was completed by Dr. Margaret Ordoñez at the Ordoñez Textile Conservation Services in Camden, TN, and by Professor Edita Vujasinović at the Textile Science Research Center in Zagreb, Croatia. Both laboratories confirmed that the analyzed fibers are pure byssus.

The hat and shawl are made of a loose knit, while the gloves are a much tighter spun thread and knit. The pair of gloves weigh 75.2 grams (left glove = 36.7g, right glove = 38.5g), the hat weighs 75.2g and the shawl weighs 250g. The total weight of sea silk in these four pieces would have required up to 400 Pinna Nobilis to produce.

Yellowed bronze sea silk knit hat.
Unlabeled

Weight of Hat: 73.8 grams

Approximate Measurements:
Sweatband circumference: 18.5"
Length: 14"

Condition:

The overall condition is very good structurally with no visible issues. The hat is hand knit so there are variations within the structure and the fibers have some color variations from natural dyes.

Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email [email protected] with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.

The physical condition of lots in our auctions can vary due to age, normal wear and tear, previous damage, and restoration/repair. All lots are sold "AS IS," in the condition they are in at the time of the auction, and we and the seller make no representation or warranty and assume no liability of any kind as to a lot's condition. Any reference to condition in a catalogue description or a condition report shall not amount to a full accounting of condition. Condition reports prepared by Freeman's staff are provided as a convenience and may be requested from the Department prior to bidding.

The absence of a posted condition report on the Freeman's website or in our catalogues should not be interpreted as commentary on an item's condition. Prospective buyers are responsible for inspecting a lot or sending their agent or conservator to inspect the lot on their behalf, and for ensuring that they have requested, received and understood any condition report provided by Freeman's.

Please email for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot.

Timothy Long

Director, Senior Specialist, Couture & Luxury Accessories

[email protected]312.334.4222

Mr. Long has nearly 20 years of experience as a curator of fashion and decorative arts in museums including the Museum of London, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and the Chicago History Museum. At Hindman, he works with individual clients, collectors, dealers, and museums to bring to auction collections of couture and luxury accessories. Mr. Long’s recent publications include Charles James: Designer in Detail and a chapter on the same designer in London Couture: British Luxury 1923–1975, both published by V&A Publishing.

Luxe Holiday: Couture & Luxury Accessories

Sea Silk Hat, 1920-50

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