Silk Two-Piece Bustle Dress, 1880s

Wheat silk satin woven with vase, floral and ribbon pattern in a two-piece bustled dress with fitted bodice, three-quarter sleeved trimmed with pleated satin and bows, attached panel overskirt with hip flaps and back bustle, and detailed with silk thread tassels, shell and gold-tone paint buttons, and center front button closures; paired with matching wheat silk satin underskirt hemmed with pleated satin.
Unlabeled
Mary D. Doering Archive No.: DRW.125.1880AB

Approximate Measurements:
DRESS
Shoulders: 14.5"
Chest: 36"
Waist: 25"
Hips: See Under Skirt
Length (underarm to hem): 45"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 23"

UNDER SKIRT
Waist: 26"
Hips: 50"
Length (side waist band to hem): 43

Property of Mary D. Doering, Falls Church, Virginia

Condition:

The overall condition is very good structurally with the following:
Structural Issues: The neckline has some wear in the fabric that appears to be a loosening of the weave.
Split/Separated Seams: Several pleats have come undone on the back right under skirt hem.
Losses: There are small-large holes on the front right and back right-center panels of the overskirt. There are small holes in the under skirt hem facing.
Soiling/Spots: There is moderate-heavy soiling under the arms through to the shell fabric which has resulted in discoloration. There are some small darkened spots on skirt, mostly on the top right hip and back right hem.
Repairs/Alterations: There is a boning casing without boning which appears to have been stitched closed. There also appears to be two small strips of fabric added into the side seams of the waist on the dress, which has spaced the skirt panels further apart.

Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email [email protected] with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.

The physical condition of lots in our auctions can vary due to age, normal wear and tear, previous damage, and restoration/repair. All lots are sold "AS IS," in the condition they are in at the time of the auction, and we and the seller make no representation or warranty and assume no liability of any kind as to a lot's condition. Any reference to condition in a catalogue description or a condition report shall not amount to a full accounting of condition. Condition reports prepared by Freeman's staff are provided as a convenience and may be requested from the Department prior to bidding.

The absence of a posted condition report on the Freeman's website or in our catalogues should not be interpreted as commentary on an item's condition. Prospective buyers are responsible for inspecting a lot or sending their agent or conservator to inspect the lot on their behalf, and for ensuring that they have requested, received and understood any condition report provided by Freeman's.

Please email for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot.

Timothy Long

Director, Senior Specialist, Couture & Luxury Accessories

[email protected]312.334.4222

Mr. Long has nearly 20 years of experience as a curator of fashion and decorative arts in museums including the Museum of London, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and the Chicago History Museum. At Hindman, he works with individual clients, collectors, dealers, and museums to bring to auction collections of couture and luxury accessories. Mr. Long’s recent publications include Charles James: Designer in Detail and a chapter on the same designer in London Couture: British Luxury 1923–1975, both published by V&A Publishing.

Luxe Holiday: A Collectors' Collection

Silk Two-Piece Bustle Dress, 1880s

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