Silk Tiered Day Dress, 1850s

A note in the Mary D. Doering Archive suggests the adjustable gathering at the front waistline may be connected to maternity. The hat in the image is available in another lot.

Dull green silk day dress trimmed with blue silk taffeta on tiered sleeves and skirt, front bodice opening with adjustable front waistline, and full skirt.
Unlabeled
Mary D. Doering Archive No.: DRW.008.1850

Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 18"
Chest: 33"
Waist (smallest): 28"
Hips: 56"
Length (underarm to hem): 47.5"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 27.5"

Property of Mary D. Doering, Falls Church, Virginia

Condition:

The overall condition is good with the following:
Structural Issues: There is a split in the back left bodice near the waistband.
Split/Separated Seams:
Losses: There are several wear holes along the entire bottom of the hemline.
Soiling/Spots: There is heavy soiling under each arm through to the outer shell. There are some orange spots on the back left sleeve under the 2nd and 3rd tier and a slight soiled area at the center back skirt just below the waist.
Repairs/Alterations: The bodice is heavily altered along the front bust darts, the right front has an additional muslin insert while the left has been restitched with a narrow seam allowance. The right waist area has been crudely stitched back in place with the waistband tape being extended by 2". The left waistband tape has been lengthened as well.

Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email [email protected] with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.

The physical condition of lots in our auctions can vary due to age, normal wear and tear, previous damage, and restoration/repair. All lots are sold "AS IS," in the condition they are in at the time of the auction, and we and the seller make no representation or warranty and assume no liability of any kind as to a lot's condition. Any reference to condition in a catalogue description or a condition report shall not amount to a full accounting of condition. Condition reports prepared by Freeman's staff are provided as a convenience and may be requested from the Department prior to bidding.

The absence of a posted condition report on the Freeman's website or in our catalogues should not be interpreted as commentary on an item's condition. Prospective buyers are responsible for inspecting a lot or sending their agent or conservator to inspect the lot on their behalf, and for ensuring that they have requested, received and understood any condition report provided by Freeman's.

Please email for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot.

Timothy Long

Director, Senior Specialist, Couture & Luxury Accessories

[email protected]312.334.4222

Mr. Long has nearly 20 years of experience as a curator of fashion and decorative arts in museums including the Museum of London, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and the Chicago History Museum. At Hindman, he works with individual clients, collectors, dealers, and museums to bring to auction collections of couture and luxury accessories. Mr. Long’s recent publications include Charles James: Designer in Detail and a chapter on the same designer in London Couture: British Luxury 1923–1975, both published by V&A Publishing.

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Silk Tiered Day Dress, 1850s

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