Mona von Bismarck: Givenchy Haute Couture Ensemble, 1972

In 1968, Smithsonian Institution curators considered a large number of items made available by Countess Mona von Bismarck. After Smithsonian curators selected materials, other museums and institutions were able to acquire items for their collections. Mount Mary University in Wisconsin chose couture dresses and suits, 10 pieces of which are now being made available at auction. The designer costumes were never a part of the Smithsonian collections.

Described by Cecil Beaton as an elegant beauty “who represented all that taste and luxury can bring to flower”, Mona von Bismarck (1897-1983) was an American socialite, philanthropist, and fashion icon. Born in Kentucky to an equestrian training family, Mona nimbly climbed the social ladder during the 20th century. Her record boasts high achievements: marriages to some of the richest men in America, eventually becoming a Countess; the accolade of “The Best Dressed Woman in the World”, nominated by the top European couturiers of the time; and the culmination of a portrait of herself, painted by the renowned Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí. Above all, Mona was a true devotee & patron of fashion – and had the couture collection to prove it.

THE FIRST
Tailored top coat in heavyweight cream wool piqué. Double breasted; notch lapels. Full length sleeves with faux button closure at cuffs. Two in-seam pockets at front. Silver-tone metal button closures at front with mother-of-pearl inlays. Slits at hem side seams. Buttoned martingale detail at back of coat. Fully lined in cream silk habotai.

Label: Givenchy
Size Label: Custom Sizing
Style/Serial No.: 45211
Date: 1972
Country of Origin: France

Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 15“
Chest: 40“
Waist: 37.5“
Hips: 41“
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 44“
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 28.5“

THE SECOND
Knee length A-line skirt in heavyweight cream wool piqué. Topstitching details throughout. Fully lined in cream silk habotai. Concealed zipper, hook-and-eye, and snap closures at back waist.

Label: Givenchy
Size Label: Custom Sizing
Style/Serial No.: 45218
Date: 1960's-1970's
Country of Origin: France

Approximate Measurements:
Waist: 29“
Hips: 40"
Length (side waist band to hem): 26.5"

Property from Mount Mary University’s Fashion Archive

This lot is located in Chicago.

Condition:

THE FIRST
The overall condition is good to very good, in consideration of the vintage nature of the garment. A few faint discoloration marks scattered throughout front of coat exterior. Button for interior button closure at front has fallen off, but is retained. Two buttons have missing mother-of-pearl inlays; one at front closure and one at right sleeve.

THE SECOND
The overall condition is very good. Little to no signs of wear. Slight loss of form to waistband due to hanging.

Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email [email protected] with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.

The physical condition of lots in our auctions can vary due to age, normal wear and tear, previous damage, and restoration/repair. All lots are sold "AS IS," in the condition they are in at the time of the auction, and we and the seller make no representation or warranty and assume no liability of any kind as to a lot's condition. Any reference to condition in a catalogue description or a condition report shall not amount to a full accounting of condition. Condition reports prepared by Freeman's staff are provided as a convenience and may be requested from the Department prior to bidding.

The absence of a posted condition report on the Freeman's website or in our catalogues should not be interpreted as commentary on an item's condition. Prospective buyers are responsible for inspecting a lot or sending their agent or conservator to inspect the lot on their behalf, and for ensuring that they have requested, received and understood any condition report provided by Freeman's.

Please email [email protected] for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot.

Tanner Branson

Associate Vice President, Head of Department, Luxury Handbags & Couture

[email protected]312 280 1212

Tanner Branson joined Freeman’s in 2022 where he provides streamlined services for couture clients evaluating and appraising luxury handbags and luxury goods. Mr. Branson brings over a decade of experience in the luxury market working for brands such as The Row and Brunello Cucinelli. He has also collaborated with celebrity clients to curate personal and public wardrobes and done commercial and editorial styling work for print and digital publications internationally. At Freeman’s Mr. Branson combines his endless passion for fashion history and luxury goods with his educational background. He has a BA in Fashion Business from Columbia College. Mr. Branson is affiliated with various auxiliary boards including the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum. Mr. Branson also appears on the top-rated PBS television program Antiques Roadshow.

Spring Fashion & Accessories

Mona von Bismarck: Givenchy Haute Couture Ensemble, 1972

Spring Fashion & Accessories

Mona von Bismarck: Givenchy Haute Couture Ensemble, 1972

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