CARTIER, BELLE ÉPOQUE, DIAMOND, ENAMEL, AND PLATINUM 'PLAQUE DE COU', CIRCA 1905

A frontispiece designed as wreaths, foliate garlands, delicate floral swags, and two pendant drops, set with old European and old mine cut diamonds weighing approximately 12.25 carats total, further accented by rose cut diamonds and white enamel around the border. Mounted in platinum. 3 1/4 x 3 inches.
Gross weight: 25.90 dwt.

Accompanied by a fitted Cartier box and an IAJA Expertise report stating the necklace is Cartier, Paris, circa 1905.

Property from the Collection of Sarah Helen Frelinghuysen Davis McCawley, thus by descent

This Cartier ‘Plaque de Cou’ epitomizes the Belle Epoque era of design. Originally the plaque would be set by Cartier on a black velvet ribbon and worn as a dog collar necklace. The dog collar necklace is signature to the period, as is the ‘Garland Style’, so elegantly defined in this necklace with diamond wreaths, foliage and swags set in platinum. Unique to this piece and telling of early Cartier, the necklace dates 1905, is the use of white enamel along the border.

Belle Epoque, Edwardian and the Gilded Age all overlap in time and the society women wearing the jewels were fortunate to travel between France, London, and New York. This necklace has pedigree provenance, from the Collection of Sarah Helen Frelinghuysen Davis McCawley, thus by descent.

The Frelinghuysen family travelled in the elite circles of society with the Vanderbilts, Astors and in this case even Edith Wharton. Sarah Helen Frelinghuysen Davis McCawley was the daughter of Frederick T. Frelinghuysen, U.S. Senator and Secretary of State and Matilda Elizabeth Frelinghuysen. Sarah’s daughter was also named Mathilda married George Cabot Lodge in August of 1900. Mr. Lodge was a poet and the two frequented in the circle of Edith Wharton. After the death of her first husband, Sarah married Major McCawley in 1906. This rare and fine necklace frontispiece would have been acquired during this period of family history.

Overall Condition: Condition is consistent with age and normal use. Some chips and loss to enamel consistent with age. Metal shows scratches. Acid test indicates platinum. Clasp of accompanying box is broken and is very difficult to open.

Center Diamond Characteristics (graded insofar as mounting permits)
Color: I.
Clarity: VS.

Smaller Diamond Characteristics (graded insofar as mounting permits)
Color: H-M+.
Clarity: VS-I.

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A Graduate Gemologist (GIA) who specializes in evaluating and appraising fine antique, estate jewelry and gemstones, Ms. Matteini provides streamlined services for Freeman's jewelry clients throughout Florida and the Southeast. Prior to joining the firm, she served as Bonhams Vice President for the Florida region and as the Regional Director for Skinner Auctioneers. A native New Englander, April has lived in South Florida since 2005 with her family. She enjoys membership in the American Society of Jewelry Historians, the jewelry social club Gem-X, and a life-long love of sailing. April brings more than 25 years of jewelry appraisal and auction house experience, combined with exceptional communications and customer service skills to her position.

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With her vast experience in the industry, she has held positions as both a Senior Jewelry Specialist and consultant at Christie’s. In the retail jewelry sector, she was the US Head of Dior Fine Jewelry and Cinta Jewelry Director at John Hardy. She has lectured extensively and has appeared as an original jewelry expert on PBS's Antiques Roadshow.
Batista has worked with significant estates and brought many historic fine jewelry pieces to market. Most recently she was responsible for presenting many important pieces of artist jewelry, including pieces by Calder, Lalanne, Burle Marx, Loloma, Margaret De Patta, and Jean Despres to the auction market

She holds a Bachelor of Arts in Art History from Randolph Macon Woman’s College and is graduate of the Gemological Institute of America’s diamonds, diamond grading, and gem identification.

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CARTIER, BELLE ÉPOQUE, DIAMOND, ENAMEL, AND PLATINUM 'PLAQUE DE COU', CIRCA 1905

Please email [email protected] for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot.

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CARTIER, BELLE ÉPOQUE, DIAMOND, ENAMEL, AND PLATINUM 'PLAQUE DE COU', CIRCA 1905

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