Back
Important Jewelry
|
- Sale 1337
Live
| Chicago
May 14 | 10:00 AM CDT
Live
| Chicago
Sale 1337
| Chicago
| Chicago
Estimate$2,500 – $3,500
Lot Essay by Archivists Delight LLC:
Coral tiaras initially became fashionable in the First Empire after they were worn by such European royalty as Empress Josephine (1763-1814). Her husband Napoleon Bonaparte’s (1769-1821) campaigns in Italy heightened French awareness of the beauty of Neapolitan coral. The gemstone’s deep red orange was seen as a colorful alternative to the pearl jewelry generally worn with white ball gowns.
Branch coral tiaras reached the height of their popularity in the 1860s. Designed to mimic laurel wreaths, their design subtly alluded to both chastity and virginity by referencing the nymph, Daphne. According to Greek mythology she was transformed into a laurel tree rather than succumb to the god Apollo’s sexual advances.
In London the foremost source of coral tiaras was the Phillips Brothers, jewelers who held royal warrants from King Edward VII (1841-1910). After winning a gold medal for their display at the 1867 Paris International Exhibition, they advertised that they had “the most complete collection of fine coral work in the world”. The Victoria and Albert Museum has in its collections an outstanding example coral branch tiara made by Philipps that is remarkably similar to this one. (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O86510/tiara-and-case/).
Coral Condition: Two coral branches appear to be missing at one end (two small wires visible). Other minor loss consistent with wear and general age of the tiara.
Wire: Wire is somewhat flexible. What appears to be early gold plating has worn off.
Box: Box structure is good, fabric is discolored and fraying at the seams/ edges.
All lots are sold “AS IS”. Please contact the jewelry department at [email protected] for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections or the effects of aging. Please note that measurements and opinions on gems are given as a courtesy and are approximated. It is recommended you talk to a specialist or view items in person before placing a bid.
The physical condition of lots in our auctions can vary due to age, normal wear and tear, previous damage, and restoration/repair. All lots are sold "AS IS," in the condition they are in at the time of the auction, and we and the seller make no representation or warranty and assume no liability of any kind as to a lot's condition. Any reference to condition in a catalogue description or a condition report shall not amount to a full accounting of condition. Condition reports prepared by Freeman's staff are provided as a convenience and may be requested from the Department prior to bidding.
The absence of a posted condition report on the Freeman's website or in our catalogues should not be interpreted as commentary on an item's condition. Prospective buyers are responsible for inspecting a lot or sending their agent or conservator to inspect the lot on their behalf, and for ensuring that they have requested, received and understood any condition report provided by Freeman's.
Please email [email protected] for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot.
To request further details about this lot, please email [email protected]
