Alaïa Coat, Spring-Summer 1988

Azzedine Alaïa (1935-2017) was an independent force in fashion, now synonymous with the sensual glamour of his body-contouring creations. The designer was born to a family of wheat farmers in Tunisia and trained as a sculptor. In 1957, Alaïa moved to Paris work in Christian Dior’s atelier, only to leave five days later due to the escalation of the Algerian War. In the mid-60's, Alaïa set up his first studio, where he soon began to dress members of Parisian high society, including Greta Garbo. During this time, he periodically lent his talents to other designers, namely Guy Laroche and Yves Saint Laurent, for whom he helped to design the iconic Mondrian dresses. His status continued to grow with new high-profile clients such as Madonna, Tina Turner, and Naomi Campbell, a close friend and protégée of the designer since she was 16. In 1985, Alaïa dressed Grace Jones for her role as May Day in the James Bond film A View to Kill.
Known as the “King of Cling,” Alaïa’s ability to sculpt the female form was truly unmatched. He paid careful attention to how even the smallest of details could alter a silhouette. Working primarily in neutral palettes, he eschewed bright color as a distraction from the beauty of the wearer’s curves. Alaïa experimented with the structural properties of textiles, pioneering new uses for stretch fabrics and viscose. He also popularized now-ubiquitous silhouettes including bandage dresses, bodycon, and leggings. Alaïa was extremely devoted to his craft–– he never stopped personally cutting and sewing his own designs. His work was singular in technique. He remained fiercely independent to the fashion establishment, never conforming to the rules pushed upon him. In 2000, the Guggenheim Museum honored Alaïa with a solo retrospective.

Asymmetrical/reversible, belted spring overcoat in lightweight, bicolor poly taffeta. Unlined. Coat features multiple, belted closures, drop sleeves, and a full skirt. This coat was featured in the 1998 ALAÏA book, by Steidl Editions.

Label: Alaïa
Size: US 6
Date: Spring-Summer 1988
Country of Origin: France

Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 18"
Chest: 32"
Waist: 28"
Sleeve Length from Center Back Neckline: 32"
Length from Center Back Neckline: 46.5"

This lot is located in Chicago.