Three Sonia Rykiel Dresses, 1970s

Alicia Simeran was born in Mendoza, in the heart of Argentina’s wine country. While attending Catholic school, Alicia’s mother helped her construct a dress of her own design. Upon seeing this creation, Alicia was instantly sent home by the principal for the risqué look. A love for the daring was instilled in her from that moment on. She came to the United States as a young woman with her husband, raised her family, and created a new life in Chicago. Alicia began working for Missoni, at the legendary department store Bonwit Teller. She broke the rules by wearing pantsuits, when the dress code requirement for women was skirts only. Once again, Alicia was sent home to change. Alicia later discovered the fashion emporium, Ultimo, a boutique that was known for outfitting Chicago’s dangerously chic. The boutique spoke her love of avant-garde design and provided her with just the palate she had longed for. Alicia relied on the legendary boutique for nearly thirty years, as it offered the unique and daring garments she cherished. Alicia Simeran was truly an expert curator of fine things, and Hindman Auctions is proud to showcase her impressive collection of advanced designer clothing that includes some of the most sought-after brands in the fashion world.

“Queen of Knits” Sonia Rykiel (1930-2016) never intended to be a designer. Rykiel originally entered fashion to fill the niche of flattering and comfortable women’s knitwear–– a breath of fresh air compared to the existing options, which were almost universally thick, scratchy, and shapeless. In 1962, Rykiel designed her first dresses and sweaters with shrunken, figure-hugging fits and high-cut armholes, which she sold in her husband’s boutique on Paris’s Left Bank. The “poor boy” sweater, as it would soon become known, was a near-instant phenomenon, especially after Françoise Hardy wore one on the cover of French Elle in 1963. Audrey Hepburn bought them in fourteen colors.
Rykiel designed for a sophisticated, distinctly modern woman, as she understood women’s needs and desires in a way that male designers could not. She was integral to the development of the effortlessly chic “Parisian” style. Her work is known for its restrained silhouettes and all-black styling, many years before the minimalist wave associated with Belgian and Japanese designers. Rykiel also popularized putting slogans onto clothes. In 1971, after reading a magazine article that described her as “sensuous,” Rykiel designed a sweater boldly emblazoned with the word. In 1974, she was among the first to design garments intended to be worn inside out–– the visible seams reminded her of the vaults of a cathedral. In the decades following, Rykiel’s success continued to grow. She introduced children’s clothes and accessory collections, as well as several successful perfumes, but it was a point of pride for Rykiel that she maintained creative autonomy by never licensing out her brand and designing only under her own name. Rykiel’s legacy as a singular force in design continues to empower women in fashion.

THE FIRST
Oversized, long sleeve foulard shell robe in floral-printed silk with tie at front neckline. Raw edge details at armholes and side seams. Unlined.
Label: Sonia Rykiel/Ultimo
Size: N/A
Country of Origin: Italy

Approximate Measurements:
Chest: 46"
Shoulders: 17"
Sleeve Length from Center Back Neckline: 29"
Length from Center Back Neckline: 50"

THE SECOND
Collarless, long sleeve shell robes in lightweight printed silk. No closure. Unlined.
Label: Sonia Rykiel/Ultimo
Size: N/A
Country of Origin: Italy

Approximate Measurements:
Chest: 30"
Shoulders: 16"
Sleeve Length from Center Back Neckline: 29"
Length from Center Back Neckline: 52"

THE THIRD
Long vest in horizontal stripe black/tan wool knit with button closures at side seams.
Label: Sonia Rykiel/Ultimo
Size: N/A
Country of Origin: Italy

Approximate Measurements:
Chest: 28"
Shoulders: 15"
Length from Center Back Neckline: 37"

Property From the Personal Wardrobe of Alicia Simeran

This lot is located in Chicago.