Wool and Lace Coat Worn by Abraham Lincoln's Relative, c. 1905

This wool and lace coat was worn by Sallie Haymaker (1862-1966), who was a cousin of President Abraham Lincoln, and the ancestor of the consignor. Ms. Haymaker’s family has carefully preserved this item for generations. The silhouette of the coat follows the height of fashion around c.1905 and features a wide panel of hand-made lace that is sewn into the neckline and forms a capelet. The coat has no label and its origins remain unknown.

The bag in the image is Lot 69, the black dress in the image is Lot 67.

White Melton wool coat trimmed with topstitched cut out wool, floral lace yoke, and braided cords with tassels with center front hook and eye closure.
Unlabeled
Size Label: Unlabeled
Style/Serial No.: N/A

Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 15.5"
Chest: 48.25"
Waist: 65"
Hips: 76"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 44.75"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 30.5"

Condition:

The overall condition is very good with the following:
Structural Issues: The back left shoulder area of the lace has a couple of broken legs just above the hem.
Losses: The left sleeve tassel is missing.
Fading/Color Change: The lace has darkened slightly from age.
Soiling/Spots: There is a faint 3" long brown mark on the front left hemline. The interior front right lining has a few pinhead sized faint spots.
Insect Damage: There is some noticeable previously grazed areas throughout the cape, most noticeably on the sleeve caps, front left chest near the opening, front right hip, back hipline, and around the hemline. There aren't any visible holes from grazing and it doesn't appear to be active.

Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email us with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.

The physical condition of lots in our auctions can vary due to age, normal wear and tear, previous damage, and restoration/repair. All lots are sold "AS IS," in the condition they are in at the time of the auction, and we and the seller make no representation or warranty and assume no liability of any kind as to a lot's condition. Any reference to condition in a catalogue description or a condition report shall not amount to a full accounting of condition. Condition reports prepared by Freeman's staff are provided as a convenience and may be requested from the Department prior to bidding.

The absence of a posted condition report on the Freeman's website or in our catalogues should not be interpreted as commentary on an item's condition. Prospective buyers are responsible for inspecting a lot or sending their agent or conservator to inspect the lot on their behalf, and for ensuring that they have requested, received and understood any condition report provided by Freeman's.

Please email for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot.

Timothy Long

Director, Senior Specialist, Couture & Luxury Accessories

[email protected]312.334.4222

Mr. Long has nearly 20 years of experience as a curator of fashion and decorative arts in museums including the Museum of London, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and the Chicago History Museum. At Hindman, he works with individual clients, collectors, dealers, and museums to bring to auction collections of couture and luxury accessories. Mr. Long’s recent publications include Charles James: Designer in Detail and a chapter on the same designer in London Couture: British Luxury 1923–1975, both published by V&A Publishing.

Michael Hall

Cataloguer, Couture & Luxury Accessories

[email protected]312 280 1212

Summer Fashion & Accessories

Wool and Lace Coat Worn by Abraham Lincoln's Relative, c. 1905

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