Pierre Cardin Haute Couture Pleated Taffeta and Velvet Dress, Fall/Winter 1985

This dress featured in the campaign for Cardin’s fall/winter 1985 collection, photographed by Guy Marineau for Women’s Wear Daily.

Haute Couture black velvet long sleeve evening dress embellished with wired pleated taffeta frills and center back zipper closure with black taffeta belt.
Label: Pierre Cardin / Paris
Size Label: Unlabeled
Style/Serial No.: N/A

Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 15"
Chest: 40"
Waist: 25.5"
Hips: 34"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 62"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 32"

Property from the Collection of Countess Anita von Galen

This lot is one of sixty-seven in this auction from Countess Anita von Galen, a German aristocrat and socialite known for her avant-garde sense of style and brilliant entertaining. Over the years, the Countess von Galen has used her visionary eye and a penchant for unique silhouettes to build an extraordinary collection of haute couture. She considered Hubert de Givenchy (Lots 1-18) and his partner, Philippe Venet, also a couturier (Lots 19-20), close friends, with Givenchy designing the baptismal gown (Lot 1) for her only son, Ferdinand Otto von Galen. Beyond her friendship with the couple, Countess von Galen was an ardent supporter of emerging, avant-garde designers including Pierre Cardin (Lots 25-48), Kansai Yamamoto (Lots 61-62), and Yohji Yamamoto (Lot 63).

Condition:

The overall condition is very good structurally though there is some faint soiling along the neckline frills, both shoulder pads have disintegrated though the covers are intact. There is a 3" separation on the center back seam above the slit. The waist on the velvet has some flattened piles from using the belt. The belt leather facing is majorly degraded with several splits and cracks throughout and the front slide clasps are rusted.

Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email us with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.

The physical condition of lots in our auctions can vary due to age, normal wear and tear, previous damage, and restoration/repair. All lots are sold "AS IS," in the condition they are in at the time of the auction, and we and the seller make no representation or warranty and assume no liability of any kind as to a lot's condition. Any reference to condition in a catalogue description or a condition report shall not amount to a full accounting of condition. Condition reports prepared by Freeman's staff are provided as a convenience and may be requested from the Department prior to bidding.

The absence of a posted condition report on the Freeman's website or in our catalogues should not be interpreted as commentary on an item's condition. Prospective buyers are responsible for inspecting a lot or sending their agent or conservator to inspect the lot on their behalf, and for ensuring that they have requested, received and understood any condition report provided by Freeman's.

Please email for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot.

Timothy Long

Director, Senior Specialist, Couture & Luxury Accessories

[email protected]312.334.4222

Mr. Long has nearly 20 years of experience as a curator of fashion and decorative arts in museums including the Museum of London, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and the Chicago History Museum. At Hindman, he works with individual clients, collectors, dealers, and museums to bring to auction collections of couture and luxury accessories. Mr. Long’s recent publications include Charles James: Designer in Detail and a chapter on the same designer in London Couture: British Luxury 1923–1975, both published by V&A Publishing.

Michael Hall

Cataloguer, Couture & Luxury Accessories

[email protected]312 280 1212

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Pierre Cardin Haute Couture Pleated Taffeta and Velvet Dress, Fall/Winter 1985

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