Chanel Haute Couture Ensemble, Winter 1989

The silk velvet jacket was made by Paquito Sala and features a label with his name, hand-written in ink. Paquito Sala, an expert tailor at Chanel, worked under Pierre Balmain until the couturier’s death in 1982. Lagerfeld brought him to Chanel the following year. The German couturier and the Spanish tailor first met in 1954, when Sala worked as Balmain’s assistant. Thanks to the acumen that distinguished him, Lagerfeld immediately recognized Sala’s outstanding skill and brought him to Chanel as the head of the atelier tailleur nearly thirty years later. Lagerfeld would deliver sketches, and Sala oversaw the creation of countless haute couture creations during his tenure with the house.

Haute Couture dark blue silk velvet fitted jacket with jewel neckline, fitted long sleeves with three button placket, weighted flattened chain at hemline, and center front button closure; paired with dark blue silk chiffon and burnout velvet tiered high-waisted skirt hemmed with black lace, and zipper closure.

Unlabeled, Attributed to Chanel

Size Label: N/A

Style/Serial No.: 60H89

Approximate Measurements:

Shoulders: 13.5"

Chest: 32"

Waist: 27.5"

Hips: 38"

Length (high shoulder point to hem): 24"

Sleeve Length (center back neck to hem) 32"

SKIRT

Waist: 26"
Hips: 38"

Length (side waist band to hem): 37.25"

Property from the Collection of Susan Gutfreund, New York, New York

Condition:

The overall condition is very good though the jacket has some moderate soiling internally under the arms, light soiling in the back shoulders, and a few darker spots on the front right lining near the waist. The bottom hem chain is hanging below the hem and seen. The skirt waist is lightly soiled and the lining has noticeable wear.

Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email us with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.

The physical condition of lots in our auctions can vary due to age, normal wear and tear, previous damage, and restoration/repair. All lots are sold "AS IS," in the condition they are in at the time of the auction, and we and the seller make no representation or warranty and assume no liability of any kind as to a lot's condition. Any reference to condition in a catalogue description or a condition report shall not amount to a full accounting of condition. Condition reports prepared by Freeman's staff are provided as a convenience and may be requested from the Department prior to bidding.

The absence of a posted condition report on the Freeman's website or in our catalogues should not be interpreted as commentary on an item's condition. Prospective buyers are responsible for inspecting a lot or sending their agent or conservator to inspect the lot on their behalf, and for ensuring that they have requested, received and understood any condition report provided by Freeman's.

Please email for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot.

Timothy Long

Director, Senior Specialist, Couture & Luxury Accessories

[email protected]312.334.4222

Mr. Long has nearly 20 years of experience as a curator of fashion and decorative arts in museums including the Museum of London, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and the Chicago History Museum. At Hindman, he works with individual clients, collectors, dealers, and museums to bring to auction collections of couture and luxury accessories. Mr. Long’s recent publications include Charles James: Designer in Detail and a chapter on the same designer in London Couture: British Luxury 1923–1975, both published by V&A Publishing.

Spring Fashion: Centuries of Style

Chanel Haute Couture Ensemble, Winter 1989

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