Samuel Winston by Charles James Silk Faille Dress and Bolero, 1952

Charles James was an Anglo-American fashion designer who worked in Chicago, London, and Paris in the 1920s and 30s before settling in New York in the 1940s, where he remained until his death in 1978. Throughout his career, James maintained a loyal list of couture clients at the same time as numerous ready-to-wear contracts. While most designers present entirely new collections each season, Charles James considered his creations timelessly fashionable and created what can be defined as design concepts—fundamental ideas that he developed, refined and perfected over decades. For example, a sleeve design from a custom-made dress in the 1930s will reappear in a 1950s design for the ready-to-wear market.

Two concepts that James felt were some of his greatest lifetime achievements include the arc sleeve and the clover-shaped skirt. Over the years, these designs appear in different forms in his iconic creations. In this dress and bolero, a ready-to-wear design by Charles James for Samuel Winston, both the arc sleeve and clover-shaped skirt appear in all their glory.

Samuel Winston was a New York retailer who hired Charles James in 1952 to create 30 designs each year. Due to their unique role in fashion history, quality and rarity, garments created by James are prized possession by museums and collectors alike. An additional version of this design can be found in the National Museum of American History, accession #: 1977.1166.001.

Pink silk faille sleeveless dress with pieced bodice into flared and shaped skirt lined with silk net, and center back zipper closure; paired with matching pink bolero with wing rolled collar which attaches at the center front three buttons on the bodice, arced three-piece sleeves with fold up cuffs, and back hook and eye closure with black satin ribbon bow detail.
Label: Samuel Winston by Charles James
Size Label: N/A
Style/Serial No.: N/A

Approximate Measurements:
DRESS
Shoulders: 13"
Chest: 35.5
Waist: 24"
Hips: 38"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 50"

BOLERO
Shoulders: 13.5"
Chest: 36"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 13.5"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 26.5"

Condition:

The overall condition is good though there is a small hole on the front left hip near the waist. There are two faint spots on the front left hip and a larger spot on the lower front left hemline. The front three buttons have some minor soiling from use as does the left sleeve cuff. The front waist seams have been let out and there are some loose stitches on the left hip where the skirt is darted into the bodice. There are some loose stitches along the back zipper closure at the waist, and the hemline appears to have been altered at least twice as evidenced by two soiled lines that indicated a previous fold. The bolero back closures appear to have been altered, with additional chain stitch bars, one of which is broken.

Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email us with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.

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Spring Fashion: Centuries of Style

Samuel Winston by Charles James Silk Faille Dress and Bolero, 1952

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